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jamie goode's wine blog

  • Why beauty matters

    A while back I caught a late-night re-run of a film by wine-loving philosopher Roger Scruton on BBC entitled Why Beauty Matters. 'In the 20th Century beauty stopped being important,' claimed Scruton. 'It was originality that won the prizes...we are losing beauty, and there is a danger that with it' [...]
    Posted: December 11, 2009, 3:20pm EST
  • An icon a day: Petrus 1978

    I'm not usually a Petrus tart: in the past my experiences with this wine have left me a bit nonplussed. But this 1978 is the real deal. Thrilling stuff.

    Château Petrus 1978 Pomerol
    Pale colour. Elegant, open, evolved nose is really beautiful, with minerals, sweet' [...]

    Posted: December 11, 2009, 2:00am EST
  • Get thee down to Whole Foods: very good wine list and excellent wine bar

    I had lunch today at the wine bar in the Whole Foods Market store on High Street Kensington, with their wine buyer Pete Hogarth and PR person Alex Tunney, who'd invited me to come and see what they are up to.

    The wine range' [...]
    Posted: December 10, 2009, 5:27pm EST
  • A Loire red after football: P-J Druet

    I've just come off the football pitch after an enjoyable game. Nine versus eight, finishing 2-1 after an hour. A solid defensive display by our side, coupled with a goalkeeping error by the other side, allowed us to sneak a hard-fought victory. There were some juicy challenges, but it was' [...]
    Posted: December 09, 2009, 5:44pm EST
  • An icon a day: Lafite 1982

    Château Lafite 1982 Pauillac, Bordeaux
    Considering that we have here a combination of perhaps Bordeaux's top property and a truly great vintage, you'd expect great things of this wine. To be honest, it is a bit disappointing, although it's certainly a good drink. The nose is warm and spicy with' [...]

    Posted: December 09, 2009, 12:44pm EST
  • Amarone: watching grapes dry






    Last week I had to do a presentation in the Valpolicella region of north east Italy. While I was there, I had a chance to [...]
    Posted: December 09, 2009, 9:29am EST
  • An icon a day: Screaming Eagle 1996

    Screaming Eagle 1996 Napa Valley, California
    This is not a big, spoofy wine. It's actually amazingly elegant and refined. Beautiful nose is aromatic and floral with spicy sweet cherry and plum fruit. Integrated, harmonious and profound. The palate is really elegant and smooth with open, midweight [...]

    Posted: December 08, 2009, 4:16pm EST
  • One of my favourite Chiantis...yum!

    Podere Le Boncie Chianti Classico Le Trame 06 Tuscany, Italy
    Just wonderful stuff, this naturally made Chianti from organically farmed vineyards. It shows almost perfect balance, countering the spicy, earthy, slightly medicinal savoury notes with vivid, bloody dark cherry and plum fruit. There's just a hint [...]
    Posted: December 08, 2009, 3:06pm EST
  • An icon a day: Ogier Belle Helene 1999

    Ogier La Belle Helène Côte-Rôtie 1999 Northern Rhône, France
    Just two barrels of this wine made. Aromatic, rich, warm spicy nose is complex and profound with lovely rich red fruit, cherry, spice and subtle earthy notes. It's powerful and intense, yet harmonious. The concentrated palate has [...]

    Posted: December 07, 2009, 7:16am EST
  • Two brilliant new world Chardonnays



    New world Chardonnay is a relatively uncool category for wine geeks. But styles and fashions are changing, and there are some that I really like. Here are two very good, equivalently priced Chardonnays that I really enjoyed. They're both from' [...]
    Posted: December 07, 2009, 4:03am EST
  • An icon a day: Jaboulet La Chapelle 1990

    After the 1978 reported on yesterday, the 1990: different, but totally compelling.

    Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle 1990 Northern Rhône, France
    Warm, complex, earthy spicy nose with some lovely richness. There are hints of medicine, old wood and game, and there's a distinct sweetness to the aromas. The palate has [...]

    Posted: December 06, 2009, 3:41pm EST
  • Video: the Labradoodle reunion



    So Rosie the Labradoodle had her reunion. Five of her eight puppies joined her for a walk, along with Digglett (the father) and a couple of guests. It was a lovely dog-filled afternoon. Here's a short film of the encounter. [...]
    Posted: December 06, 2009, 9:57am EST
  • Video: the spectacular Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards, South Africa

    One of the short films from my recent South Africa trip: the beautiful TMV, a biodynamically run estate in Tulbagh.

    [...]
    Posted: December 05, 2009, 7:31am EST
  • An icon a day: Jaboulet La Chappelle 1978

    Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle 1978 Northern Rhône, France
    This 1978 is a legendary northern Rhône wine, and so tasting it knowing what it was made being objective quite hard. But fortunately the wine did not disappoint. A relatively pale colour, it has a complex [...]

    Posted: December 05, 2009, 6:58am EST
  • Icon wines at The Sampler

    Had an incredible chance to taste some iconic wines this morning courtesy of north London wine merchant The Sampler. There's always a good range of interesting wines to taste here, courtesy of their multiple enomatic machines, but in the run up to Christmas they've put' [...]

    Posted: December 04, 2009, 1:08pm EST
  • Brief Napa reports: Trinchero Napa Valley

    [Continuing my brief write-ups from Napa.] I had lunch and a tasting with Barry Wiss, a charming host who had a pile of my wine science books for signing. Education is a big emphasis at Trinchero, and here they have a particular focus on wine and [...]
    Posted: December 03, 2009, 12:58pm EST
  • Social media: thinking about the consumer

    [thinking out loud]

    I love the way that internet has opened up the media.

    Now, all can play.

    Before, considerable power resided in the hands of a range of gatekeepers. Editors were sure of what their readers or viewers wanted, and, with an eye to the demands of their advertisers, delivered [...]

    Posted: December 01, 2009, 9:02am EST
  • Nebbiolo: what a crazy, wonderful grape

    I've decided that I love Nebbiolo. It's so uncommercial, making wines that are pale in colour, brutally tannic, high in acid, complex in flavour, and generally hard to get.
    It's also wildly difficult to do well. Especially outside Piedmont. It's like Pinot Noir, in many ways, [...]
    Posted: November 30, 2009, 10:38am EST
  • Should 'paid for' blog mentions be disclosed? Douwegate

    In the past I have defended blogging from accusations that many leading bloggers take undisclosed payments for mentions. The accusations have always been non-specific, and I reckon that most bloggers care more for their integrity. But is this changing?
    It's my view that a line has to be drawn between [...]
    Posted: November 29, 2009, 9:22am EST
  • Video: L'Ormarins Estate, Antonij Rupert, Franschhoek, South Africa



    Just uploaded a video from my visit to L'Ormarins, the home estate for Antonij Rupert Wines. Antonij Rupert is an incredibly ambitious project, based on four properties spread across the Cape. It's funded by the billionaire Rupert family, and while the best is yet to come, the wines' [...]
    Posted: November 29, 2009, 5:44am EST
  • Rosie the Labradoodle, an update

    Far too much serious wine talk of late. Haven't mentioned Rosie The Labradoodle (RTL) for ages.
    She's pictured above on this morning's walk. A crisp, sunny Saturday stroll. I don't mind cold temperatures if the light is good. The problem with our UK winters is [...]
    Posted: November 28, 2009, 5:40am EST
  • A Penfolds pair


    I grew up with Penfolds. When I was getting into wine, the likes of Bin 369, Bin 28 and Bin 128 were staples. Grange was cheap then (1993 = £35), comparitively speaking, but I wasn't ready to spend this much on wine, so I skipped' [...]
    Posted: November 28, 2009, 1:44am EST
  • Two good, affordable Spanish wines

    Over recent years I've focused a lot on Portugal, but not so much on Spain. It's something I may change: I'm tasting quite a lot of interesting Spanish wines of late, but in the past I had problems with the Spanish tendency to use too much [...]
    Posted: November 27, 2009, 5:33pm EST
  • Minimum pricing of alcohol

    Lots of discussion about minimum pricing of alcohol at the moment. It's prompted by the move in Scotland to introduce a range of measures to combat alcohol abuse (see below, from an email I received today).
    Would minimum pricing be bad for wine? It might help break the current [...]
    Posted: November 26, 2009, 6:37pm EST
  • A quick trip to Bordeaux

    Just come back from a quick trip from Bordeaux with fellow wine journo Tim Atkin. We were visiting Dourthe, one of the larger negociants who own several properties spread across the region.
    The focus of yesterday morning was Sauvignon Blanc. Tim and I tried 30 of [...]
    Posted: November 26, 2009, 3:07pm EST
  • A silky Oregon Pinot Noir

    Last year I really enjoyed visiting Oregon for the first time, and developed a liking for Oregon Pinot Noir. Here's a really good one that I cracked open last night, and am finishing off tonight.
    Torii Mor Pinot Noir La Colina Vineyard 2006 Dundee Hills, [...]
    Posted: November 25, 2009, 2:55am EST
  • Swinging at Vargellas


    A couple of pictures from my September visit to the Fladgate partnership in September, which I've just been sent by Andy Costello, who took them. The first is of me trying to drive the Douro. I reckon the carry must be' [...]
    Posted: November 24, 2009, 3:57pm EST
  • World-class Riesling from Luxembourg

    Really enjoying this world-class dry Riesling from Luxembourg. It's just perfectly balanced.
    Mathis Bastian Riesling Fut 40 2004 Moselle, Luxembourg
    12.5% alcohol. Incredible stuff, just beautifully poised and showing real balance. It's dry with a minerally, spicy complexity to the generous lemon and lime fruit. Pure [...]
    Posted: November 24, 2009, 2:32pm EST
  • More films

    It's been a while since I did my amateur film reviewing. But having taken a number of long-haul flights recently, I've seen a few. [I would have seen more had not BA's 'high life' entertainment on demand system suffered a 50% failure rate, based on four journeys of c. 11' [...]
    Posted: November 23, 2009, 10:29am EST
  • Pelaverga: an obscure but incredible Italian wine

    Very excited to try a rather obscure but wonderful Italian red last night. It's from Piedmont, but the grape variety is Pelaverda, which is grown mostly in the commune of Verduno. This is the sort of red wine I just love. Fresh, natural, complex and expressive.[...]
    Posted: November 22, 2009, 7:41am EST
  • Skinnergate

    Tim Atkin, one of my favourite wine writers, has written an excellent editorial in this week's Off Licence News. It's about the Skinner scandal.
    Matt Skinner is a young-ish Aussie sommelier who UK wine book publisher Mitchell Beazley have been attempting over the last few years to cast as the [...]
    Posted: November 21, 2009, 5:37am EST
  • Brief Napa reports: Trefethen


    My second full day in Napa began at Trefethen, in the Oak Knoll district. It was another beautiful morning, and I was meeting with Jon Ruel – like me, another lapsed scientist (he'd done research on plant ecology in a previous life). John was a' [...]
    Posted: November 20, 2009, 8:50pm EST
  • Brief Napa reports: Lagier-Meredith at Bottega

    Americans like to eat dinner early. When I arrived at Bottega for dinner with Steve Lagier and Carole Meredith, some people we already finishing their main courses, and it was just 6.30 pm.

    Husband and wife team Steve and Carole began their small Mount Veeder [...]
    Posted: November 19, 2009, 8:45pm EST
  • On my way home

    Just about to catch the BART to the airport on my way home from San Francisco. It has been a really fun trip. I spent this morning wandering around the city, and bought a bag, some bubblewrap, sticky tape and scissors. This was to pack three [...]
    Posted: November 19, 2009, 3:32pm EST
  • Brief Napa reports: Corison


    Corison took me by surprise a bit: it's a smaller operation than I had been expecting, and the wines were made in a style I love: the antithesis of the big, in-yer-face, points chasing excess. Cathy Corison wasn't around (she was' [...]
    Posted: November 19, 2009, 1:37pm EST
  • Update from the road

    Tonight was the last of my brief California trip. The focus today was on closures, and a large panel of technical people were gathered to discuss the structure of a forthcoming closures trial which will be sponsored by Oeneo. Actually, it's not a closures trial, but [...]
    Posted: November 19, 2009, 1:53am EST
  • Brief Napa reports: Saintsbury

    For my next visit I was off to Carneros, the cooler-climate bit of Napa at the south of the valley, where the influence of breezes from the San Francisco bay are more keenly felt. This is where Pinot Noir and Chardonnay thrive, and Saintsbury was my [...]
    Posted: November 18, 2009, 8:38pm EST
  • Brief Napa reports: Schramsberg

    Schramsberg is my second visit. On a spellbindingly crisp, sunny morning I meet with Keith Hock, the winemaker here. Schramsberg reeks of history. When Jack and Jamie Davies brought the property in 1965 it was pretty much abandoned, and they decided to make wine here again. [...]
    Posted: November 18, 2009, 1:31am EST
  • Brief Napa reports: Cain

    I arrived at San Francisco airport on a gorgeous late autumn day, just after 2 pm. After clearing homeland security and picking up a hire car, it was already 3.15 pm – travelling with just hand luggage, something I was very proud of, hadn't really saved' [...]
    Posted: November 17, 2009, 1:26pm EST
  • More from Napa


    Another quick stop in St Helena library, sandwiched between appointments. Last night had a fantastic dinner with Steve Lagier and Carole Meredith at the wonderful Bottega in Yountville. This morning I was at Trefethen and Trinchero, and now I'm off to Grgich Hills, which is' [...]
    Posted: November 16, 2009, 5:51pm EST
  • Quick update from Napa


    I'm sitting in the public library at St Helena. It's the only internet connection I can find and the library closes in five minutes, so I'll be brief.
    I arrived in Napa yesterday evening, and had a lovely dinner at Cain, followed today by visits [...]
    Posted: November 15, 2009, 7:54pm EST
  • (Moral) panic on the streets of...

    The biggest threat to the wine trade in the UK isn’t supermarket 3-for-£10 offers.

    It’s neoprohibitionism. I think the moral panic surrounding alcohol is a huge threat to the drinks industry, because I can’t see it stopping.

    The targeting of middle-aged drinkers enjoying a bottle of wine over dinner is [...]

    Posted: November 15, 2009, 2:38am EST
  • More on Wine Future

    I followed the recent Wine Future conference via a combination of Twitter and the live feed on the Catavino blog. I’m so glad I didn’t go. By all accounts, several of the speakers misjudged the event and simply used their slot as a promotional vehicle for their own ventures. [...]

    Posted: November 14, 2009, 2:12am EST
  • Judging beer awards in Leeds

    Spent today in Leeds. It’s actually the first time I’ve been to this city, although aside from three nice pubs, I didn’t see all that much of it.

    I was one of the four judges of the annual beer writers’ awards. In case you are wondering, [...]

    Posted: November 13, 2009, 6:26pm EST
  • My thousandth tweet: time well spent?

    Today I posted my thousandth tweet, and to celebrate, a few glasses of Champagne Jacquart's Brut de Nominee, which is an NV mainly from the 1999 vintage. It has a fresh, assertive nose with rich citrus fruit and toast aromas. The palate is concentrated, with sophisticated toasty flavours backing up' [...]
    Posted: November 12, 2009, 6:44pm EST
  • Announcing the London Gastronomy Seminars


    I'm helping out in a minor capacity with a very exciting new series of flavour-focused symposia, billed The London Gastronomy Seminars. The first event is later this month (30th) and features Herve This, the brains behind the molecular gastronomy movement. The website went live' [...]
    Posted: November 12, 2009, 9:08am EST
  • Chile's Cloudy Bay? Sauvignon from coastal Colchagua

    So you've got your head round the new Chilean cool-climate regions: Leyda, San Antonio, Elqui, Limari. Here's another for you - coastal Colchagua. And this Sauvignon Blanc is the first wine to be released from this new region, in vineyards recently planted at Paredones, just six [...]
    Posted: November 11, 2009, 4:43am EST
  • Amazing Pinot from Danny Schuster

    On my last visit to New Zealand, one of the many highlights was visiting Daniel Schuster in Waipara. He wasn't there, but the vineyard was spellbindingly beautiful, and the wines elegantly European in style.
    Sadly, the winery went into receivership earlier this year (see [...]
    Posted: November 10, 2009, 3:22pm EST
  • The beauty of the Douro






    Just been editing some of my pictures from this year's trips to Portugal's Douro. It really is a spectacular place. If [...]
    Posted: November 10, 2009, 7:14am EST
  • 'Wine Future'

    The much talked-about 'Wine Future' conference is taking place in Spain later this week. I'm not going (although I probably would have gone had I been invited, even if it was out of morbid curiousity).
    There's a glittering speaker list, and it will draw a significant crowd of important [...]
    Posted: November 09, 2009, 9:12am EST

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